Anyone have any advice on how to get the stencil to stick to practice skin? 
I dont know what im doing wrong, but the lines are weak and wont really stick.
I dont know what im doing wrong, but the lines are weak and wont really stick. How do I get the stencil on practice skin?
- Starter tiriljanett
- Start date
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Hi,I use dettol.i wipe area with it normally leave it a little wetter put stencil on then place something heavy on top it.set up machines,inks etc then take item off stencil and remove stencil.i then pat stencil rub bit of vas on it then tattoo away hope this helps
- Starter
- #3
Thanks!
Dont have dettol though but going to look for it and try that out! Is it something i could by in a store? Sorry if its a dumb question haha
- Starter
- #5
Thanks! :-D
i made my own stencil stuff with deoderant stick greensoap and aloe vera ...i wip pig down with alcohol then apply my stencil stuff wat\it 60 secs then apply stencil ....seems
to work nicely
to work nicely
Speed stick deodorant
- Starter
- #9
ooh, thats cool!
In which order do you put it on? and how much of greensoap and aloe vera?
- Starter
- #10
That was actually what i was trying, but maybe i took on to much or did the transfer paper wrong
need to google that shit :')
the trick is to put the stencil on and wait for about half an hour then rub it off, it leaves a nice faint blue line but one that you can see, if you don't rub it off you will have a very strong line which you will see part off after you have lined it, that is if you are using the thicker, better quality practice skins, i just got five of them for £12 from ebay.
- Starter
- #13
Will try that! Can you send the link on the practice skins?
Mine is cheap but will work for now, but have seen some people have a kind that seems more real and you can actually "pinch" the skin 
Here you have a tutorial for using speedstick as stencil solution!
this is what i use ...
I have a 400 ml applicator bottle from Sally's
I used three original speed sticks
1/3 isopropyl alcohol 91%
1/3 green soap
1/3 with hazel.
it seems to work for me
I have a 400 ml applicator bottle from Sally's
I used three original speed sticks
1/3 isopropyl alcohol 91%
1/3 green soap
1/3 with hazel.
it seems to work for me
also aloe vera just a touch though
it seems we have gone into what we use instead of what to do, just to make things clear, any house hold product with soap in it will do, i have used hand soap, hand wash, all kinds of wipes but i now use stencil stuff it's about as good as you can get and lasts even on very long sessions but thats my opinion, in the first photo, the left square is put on with stencil stuff, about £15 a bottle and the square on the right is put on with fairy washing up liquid, free cuz you should have some in, if you apply what ever you are using to put the stencil on with, don't put to much on because the rubber practice skin doesn't absorb it very well, when it is slightly tacky put the stencil on and hold down for about 5 seconds, then take it off, i said before rub it off after about half an hour but i would leave it for about an hour and then rub it off, you will then have a nice faint but clear line to work with, like in the second photo, of a watch, the practice skins i use are not the new kind that stretch but they are the better quality ones, if you buy five at a time, you can get them for as little as £3 each and you use both sides so one can easily last you a week, if you cover the whole sides, i get them from bay, the item number is 181544991400
from what i remember it's a bitch getting it on! haha, i know people who use a pound of flesh, scrub it down first with a scourer, if you go on A pound of flesh instagram, they do an instruction picture i think how to get it to stick to best
also remember to use alcohol before apply stencil solution to take any moisture/oils/greases off! that's with human flesh, any practice skin
also remember to use alcohol before apply stencil solution to take any moisture/oils/greases off! that's with human flesh, any practice skin
their is no big secret, it's just apply stencil stuff, stick it on and wait for 5 seconds and whip it over after about an hour, when you get to real skin, it's much easier, you can even stick them on with alcohol wipes, they are great if you make a mistake as well, a little bit of practice and you will be fine.
theres a previous thread from about 2yrs ago giving you the recipe for stencil stuff,,look back through the threads,,itll make at least a litre,,i made it at the time,and am still using it,, works as well as anything ive ever used and makes enough to last years,,cost about £20 for materials and i dare say ive enough to last another year...
Standard. No need to search any further, this is everything you will ever need in a stencil recipe
- Starter
- #24
Thanks for all the input! Iv tried to put it on the skin first, so was a bit shocked when it was harder on practice skin :') But apparently its just harder, so thats good to know!
Atm im using deo but will try to make my own stencil stuff tomorrow and see if that works better, and also order better practice skins Thanks again
Iv tried to put it on the skin first, so was a bit shocked when it was harder on practice skin :') But apparently its just harder, so thats good to know! Atm im using deo but will try to make my own stencil stuff tomorrow and see if that works better, and also order better practice skins
Thanks again
Try buy pig skin in meal shop , is better then fake skin
dwight
Basic
Good day,
I think I'm also sitting with a problem where the STENCIL does not transfer as dark as the ink on the stencil...wipes away or fades either quicker after a few wipes.
Please anyone with some advice to get this nightmare away. (FYI, I'm from South Africa, do not have all the item you guys have in your countries)
I think I'm also sitting with a problem where the STENCIL does not transfer as dark as the ink on the stencil...wipes away or fades either quicker after a few wipes.
Please anyone with some advice to get this nightmare away. (FYI, I'm from South Africa, do not have all the item you guys have in your countries)
You can try a good tip, from Malin i believe, you just trace your reversed design with a regular pencil on tracing paper or even regular office A4 paper, put it on fake skin and re-trace it back onto the fake skin.
The pencil will now be your stencil!
It works without any stencil paper or liquid, another advantage!
Peace,
DKJ
The pencil will now be your stencil!
It works without any stencil paper or liquid, another advantage!
Peace,
DKJ
Clean it with alcohol to get the oily stuff off... use hulk, electrum of stencilstuff, but only a very thin layer. Let it dry, apply second thin layer of transfer fluid, put your stencil on and over that an extra sheet of paper towel so you won't smear the stencil when you apply some pressure. If you want it to really stay and have a flat sheet (not a hand or skull) just put a thick on top of the stencil and paper towel. Wait a day and you're good to go. Never had any problems after doing it that way. Hairspray I tried too but the carbon dissolved... could be the brand of hairspray, no knowledge about that
Edit: thermal paper *never* worked for me, hectograph is the only thing I ever got to stick this way... forgot to mention that.
Edit: thermal paper *never* worked for me, hectograph is the only thing I ever got to stick this way... forgot to mention that.
I just use a thin layer of straight green soap. Works just fine
tattoogirl89
Basic
hi, right now im using pig skin and stencil stuff, have previously tried making transfer solution myself with deodorant, have tried two types of paper, and my stencil is still coming out really faint. lines are missing here and there which leaves me free-handing. any tips or solutions? i dont know what im doing wrong.
Do you clean the pig skin with alcohol first
1. Use the right stencil paper
Don't use the spirit paper if its matte, you want dark and glossy carbon side
2. Stencil applicant
i. Make your own:
If you would like to make bulk or be DIY, relatively easy but you have to make it (previous posts have good formulas)
ii. Buy some:
Its actually cheap considering how much you use per job and this is the easiest no fuss way.
Imagine your lips are chapped and you want to put some cream on it. That amount of Stencil stuff is what you want to apply. Seriously a small bit, no bigger than tip of pinky finger. But if you do too much it's fine, spread out further to surrounding skin area. Press centre first then run two fingers to 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position (or 9 and 3 if you prefer) of design. Then using the top side of index finger (the side with your nail) whilst bending indexes 90 degrees, spread design from middle outwards.
iii. Using soapy water:
Actually works, but you have to tweak the right amount of moisture. Too little the carbon will not be activated to come off the carbon paper, too much and the carbon will wash away. What works is actually placing one of your fingers underneath the about-to-be-stenciled area, then hover the nozzle of your soapy water bottle very close to the skin but not touching (ever!), press your trigger very lightly so its not a vaporous stream coming out, in fact small droplets come out, then use aforementioned finger to lightly push moisture up skin and to sides. You will know when its enough moisture when there's not enough to start falling down the skin as a stream BUT wet enough so there's a real glossy patch of moist skin. If there's too much, that's fine just spread moisture out further to surrounding skin area, outside stencil area.
3. Stencil line quality
Use a printer, Brother Pocket Jet series is good, you can tweak print density so lines are DARK af. If you don't have one that's okay too. Use a ballpoint, it's the best. Inky pens won't work, pencil is okay, but ballpoint is a hard ball which helps make friction which = heat. Heat = good transfer of carbon onto stencil paper. Imagine you have a scratchie lotto ticket, or you are trying to block out your name and personal details on a parcel sticker. that's what you want to do with your lines, not just drawing over it one clean pass. Do sections, draw along segments 3-5 laps. Make sure you overlap this. This accomplishes a real solid line as well. Remember, its friction that gets good carbon lines, not steady handwork. Don't worry if you drew a bit off, you want to achieve the darkest lines that's all.
^ I feel like this was my biggest problem when i started, it's the stencil lines itself.
Don't use the spirit paper if its matte, you want dark and glossy carbon side
2. Stencil applicant
i. Make your own:
If you would like to make bulk or be DIY, relatively easy but you have to make it (previous posts have good formulas)
ii. Buy some:
Its actually cheap considering how much you use per job and this is the easiest no fuss way.
Imagine your lips are chapped and you want to put some cream on it. That amount of Stencil stuff is what you want to apply. Seriously a small bit, no bigger than tip of pinky finger. But if you do too much it's fine, spread out further to surrounding skin area. Press centre first then run two fingers to 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position (or 9 and 3 if you prefer) of design. Then using the top side of index finger (the side with your nail) whilst bending indexes 90 degrees, spread design from middle outwards.
iii. Using soapy water:
Actually works, but you have to tweak the right amount of moisture. Too little the carbon will not be activated to come off the carbon paper, too much and the carbon will wash away. What works is actually placing one of your fingers underneath the about-to-be-stenciled area, then hover the nozzle of your soapy water bottle very close to the skin but not touching (ever!), press your trigger very lightly so its not a vaporous stream coming out, in fact small droplets come out, then use aforementioned finger to lightly push moisture up skin and to sides. You will know when its enough moisture when there's not enough to start falling down the skin as a stream BUT wet enough so there's a real glossy patch of moist skin. If there's too much, that's fine just spread moisture out further to surrounding skin area, outside stencil area.
3. Stencil line quality
Use a printer, Brother Pocket Jet series is good, you can tweak print density so lines are DARK af. If you don't have one that's okay too. Use a ballpoint, it's the best. Inky pens won't work, pencil is okay, but ballpoint is a hard ball which helps make friction which = heat. Heat = good transfer of carbon onto stencil paper. Imagine you have a scratchie lotto ticket, or you are trying to block out your name and personal details on a parcel sticker. that's what you want to do with your lines, not just drawing over it one clean pass. Do sections, draw along segments 3-5 laps. Make sure you overlap this. This accomplishes a real solid line as well. Remember, its friction that gets good carbon lines, not steady handwork. Don't worry if you drew a bit off, you want to achieve the darkest lines that's all.
^ I feel like this was my biggest problem when i started, it's the stencil lines itself.
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tattoogirl89
Basic
no but i tried that and it came out a bit darker. i think its the pig skin because i did my first tattoo on my husband and the stencil came out perfect. must be the damn pig skin
Dettol.Anyone have any advice on how to get the stencil to stick to practice skin?
I always wash my pig skin with dish detergent first ,then dry and then wipe down with alcohol,you need to remove all the surface skin grease ,of course your husbands skin wouldn’t be a greasy ?
Good topic, wanna do it myself, as have similar problem with producing the stencils.
If I put too much stencil gel, it all blurs. If to little is to faded.
I keep trying. If I'll find a way I'll share with my experience.
If I put too much stencil gel, it all blurs. If to little is to faded.
I keep trying. If I'll find a way I'll share with my experience.
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